The Basics
The African Pygmy Hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris) has gained popularity as a pet due to their small size and unique, spiky appearance. Many people are drawn to their cuteness, which is often amplified by their curious and sometimes shy behavior. They reach maturity by 6 months of age, growing to an adult size of 5 to 8 inches in length and weighing between 300 to 600 grams. With an average lifespan of about 5 years, they require attentive care to maintain their health and well-being throughout their lives. 

Lifespan
The average lifespan we see for our hedgehogs is 5 years. The oldest hedgehog produced by our herd lived to be 8 1/2, his name was Koda!
A well-informed and attentive owner will greatly impact the quality of life and extend the lifespan of their hedgie.

 

Understanding their needs through doing the proper research and providing routine care is key to their health.​

 

The lifespan depends on a variety of factors!

1. Nutrition: High-quality cat food like the brand Inception and live insects are their main staple.

2. Heat: Hedgehogs need a stable, warm environment ( 75°F to 80°F) to prevent hibernation. Hedgehogs without the proper heat setup rarely make it to 2.5 years because their organs can't work properly. 

3. Health: We recommend yearly wellness exams to monitor your hedgehog’s health and catch issues early. ​

4. Enrichment: To prevent boredom add a exercise wheel, cat toys and tunnels. They need to keep their brains active!

5. Genetics: Breeding practices greatly contribute to the overall health. Genetic diversity of hedgehogs is key! This is why we firmly believe all breeder should raise pedigreed hedgehog to track lines with genetic issues and pair with a low COI, but that is not the case for many. Just because a breeder is a USDA licensed breeder doesn't mean they have good breeding practices, please do your research.  Poor breeding practices, is the number one cause of premature death because the gene pool is super small.

 

Personality Types
Hedgehogs have their own personality and personal quirks. While most of the demeanor truly has a lot to do with handling at a young age.

• ​"Cuddly" hedgehogs are more relaxed. You will likely need to keep an eye on their weight, as the cuddly hedgies tend to be on the chunky side. 

• "Adventurous" hedgehogs are always on the go. They are truly the funniest of personalities. When they are out for bonding time, they love to run and burn off their extra energy. They generally require a higher fat food and lots of protein substitutes like ground chicken, eggs, and insects to keep up with their fast metabolism. ​

• "Loner" hedgehogs enjoy being left alone. They seem happier running on their wheel, running PVC pipe mazes, and exploring. They need a routine!

• "Huffy" hedgehogs will hiss, pop, ball up, and click at you. They are prone to bite out of fear if you are not taking them seriously. With the right person, they do come around but these hedgehogs pick their person. Once they trust you, you will be lifelong friends! The owners have got to be patient, and up to the challenge. Most of the huffy hedgehogs are rescues and surrenders that were not taken care of properly or left in their enclosure without much contact. They are super hard to place because of their antisocial behaviors, but they are the most rewarding once you gain their trust. ​​​​

Sounds

• Huffing and Hissing: Fear, mistrust, anger

• Popping and Clicking: Fear or anger

• Purring: Contentment

• Snuffling: ​Exploring or curiosity 

• Chirping: Hunger

• Squealing: Pain or frustration

• Screaming: Extreme pain or nightmare

Solitary
Hedgehogs are SOLITARY and do not bond with each other, so they should be housed separately to avoid territorial issues. ​Fighting and dominance issues are very common among co-housed hedgehogs. Squealing and huffing is a form of communication in milder displays of dominance. The most common injuries from these conflicts are damaged ears, bites on the legs, injuries just under the quill skirt, and death.​

Male vs Female

Both genders make great pets! There is no difference in personality when it comes to the sex of the hedgehog, the personality varies by the individual hedgie.

• Males engage in "boy time". Most are discrete and some are not shy at all! 

• Females are induced ovulators. They do not come into heat cycles or periods.

• Spaying and neutering is not suggested unless medically necessary.

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Quilling Up
This is a defensive behavior, where the hedgehog is protecting itself from potential threats . If a hedgehog is quilling up around you, it might be feeling scared, stressed, or unsure of its surroundings. Hedgehogs may or may not ball up when their quills are raised.

• Raised quills/balling up   (cautious/fear)

• Flattened quills (relaxed)

Scratching
Hedgehogs will scratch from anxiety when they first come home it will go away after the acclimation period. When a hoglet is quilling, you can give the baby a warm water bath to help soften the skin to make it easier for the quills to come in. Dry skin is so common in hedgehogs! If you suspect your hedgehog's scratching is more than anxiety, quilling, or dry skin, please read the mites section.

Anointing
Anointing is a completely normal, unexplained behavior in hedgehogs. When hedgehogs come into contact with something new to them, they will begin to lick and then taste the item of interest and  froth at the mouth which they will apply to other areas of their body. Once your hedgehog settles into their new home, your hedgehog will anoint far less than before, but until then have some unscented baby wipes handy!

Biting
African Pygmy Hedgehogs aren't typically biters. Their main defense mechanism is their quills, and they curl into a ball to protect themselves. However, they might bite in certain situations: when they're hurt, overhandled, smell something unpleasant on your hands, or are just being curious and "tasting" things. Hedgehogs are especially sensitive to the smell of cigarettes or marijuana, and they might bite smokers or anyone with those scents on them.

Hedgehogs use their sense of smell and taste to investigate their surroundings, especially babies. Some hedgehogs are curious "tasters." Remember, when you bring your hedgehog home, they may experience sensory overload. After the two-week acclimation period, your hedgehog will feel more comfortable in its surroundings, and then the bonding can begin.

Burrowing
Hedgehogs in captivity like to dig and burrow in anything they can, it is their natural instinct. The cage for your hedgehog should ideally be big enough to include multiple hiding spots. This not only improves the environment around your hedgie, but it also gives sense of security as well as adding enrichment. If you chose to do fleece instead of loose bedding, you will need more hides and burrowing options for your hedgehog. All tunnels and hiding places must be big enough for them to turn around in as they enter head first and exit the same way. In the wild, hedgehogs spend their days sleeping basically anywhere dark that they can conceal themselves from predators.

Nocturnal
Hedgehogs are nocturnal therefore they are primarily active at night! They run on their wheels and reorganize their cages while you are sleeping. You may hear them eating their kibble and drinking from their hedgehog sipper, scratching, and even trying to escape if they are not provided the proper enrichment.

“Bed Head”
All hedgehogs no matter how friendly, will huff and quill up at you when woken up. Hedgehogs need to be woken up gently rather than being bombarded with stimuli at first. Allow a few minutes to wake up on its own by removing its hide and turning off the lights. As your hedgehog relaxes, carefully scoop them up from beneath their belly.

Eliminating
Hedgehogs tend to eliminate shortly after waking up, after eating, or while running on their wheel. Pay attention to when and where your hedgehog prefers to eliminate. To prevent odors and maintain hygiene clean up after your hedgie regularly.

Messy Wheels
Baby hedgehogs have a short intestinal tracks as they run. In the morning, owners are greeted with a messy wheel and "poop boots". Cleaning the wheel is an everyday task. We prefer bucket wheels because they are super easy to clean!​

Quilling

Baby hedgehogs go through a quilling process where they shed their baby quills and grow adult ones. This can be pretty uncomfortable for them, often making them grumpier than usual. Imagine growing needles out of your skin—it’s like a baby teething but all over their body. Some hoglets have a tougher time quilling than others, while for some, you might not even notice except for the quills on the bottom of the enclosure. Quilling can be challenging for both the hedgehog and the owner, but with patience and proper care, it can be managed effectively. Consistent handling during this time is crucial for bonding, even if your hedgehog is a bit grumpy.

You’ll find lots of loose quills, but your baby should never be bare or have any bald spots. Quilling is usually at its worst between 6-8 weeks old and normally lasts a couple of weeks, on and off. This is why we don’t usually send babies home until around 8 weeks. Most hedgehogs finish quilling by around 6 months old, but this can vary. You might see new quills poking through their skin, indicating they are currently quilling. Some hedgehogs become extremely uncomfortable and grumpy during this time. They may not want their backs touched but continue to handle them for bonding.

• Managing Discomfort: A warm bath can help soften the skin, allowing the larger adult quills to emerge more easily. While holding your hedgehog as it dries, softly brush the quills with a baby brush to help loosen the loose quills. Instead of topical treatments, add one drop of flaxseed oil to their dry kibble at each meal. This helps prevent dry skin and is a healthy alternative to overused topical treatments.

• Monitoring for Issues:​ The quills should have a root at the end. If you notice dry flaky skin attached to the root ball, an infected ingrown quill, excessive quill loss after a year, or bald spots, make a vet appointment to rule out mites, fungal infection, or other issues.

Hibernation
African Pygmy Hedgehogs should not hibernate. It is dangerous because their bodies aren’t equipped to handle long periods of low temperatures. If an African Pygmy Hedgehog is exposed to temperatures below 72 degrees they will try to hibernate. This is risky and can lead to hypothermia, weakened immune systems, and even death. If you notice signs of hibernation—like lethargy, coldness, wobbly or reduced appetite—it's important to warm them up gradually. It’s crucial to maintain a stable, comfortable temperature (between 75°F and 80°F ) to prevent any stress that might trigger hibernation. 

Estivation
Estivation is not a common behavior in African Pygmy Hedgehogs. High temperatures will leading to heat exhaustion. By keeping your hedgehog's enclosure an ambient temperature between 75°F and 80°F, you won't have any issues. Signs of overheating include excessive panting, lethargy, splatting and unresponsiveness.

Hedgie Hives
Some new owners will get mild irritation caused by the quills when they hold their hedgehog. Wash your hands after holding your hedgehogs. One effective way to manage it is by wiping their quills down with a non-scented baby wipe instead of over-bathing them. ["Hedgie Hives" Video]​​​

Annual Vet Exams
Hedgehogs should have yearly routine health check-ups to keep a baseline of health on record. There are some pet insurance that cover hedgehogs, we highly recommend looking into it. It’s crucial to find a vet who is well-versed in hedgehog care, because not all have are well versed in their care. ​
 

Weight Checks
Keeping a weight log can help catch many illnesses before the first symptoms appear. The first sign that a hedgehogs isn't feeling unwell is often a decrease in appetite and weight loss. First-time owners might miss this key symptom, leading to later detection of illnesses. 

Emergency Preparedness
Hedgehogs are prone to minor injuries and require specific care, especially in emergency situations. It's important to have a well-stocked emergency kit and a contingency plan in case of illness, natural disasters, or power outages.

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Essential Items:

• Always have your vet’s contact information and emergency numbers readily available.

• Keep some cash on hand specifically for emergency vet visits.

• Miracle Care Kwik Stop for bleeding from nail trims 

• Travel Carrier

• Hand Warmers

• Bottled Water

• Pedialyte and Oral Syringes

• One Week’s Worth of Food

• Extra Blankets/Liners/Bedding

• Paper Towels

• Small Scissors and Baby Nail Clippers: 

• Tweezers 

• Cotton Swabs/Q-tips and Gauze

• Contact Lens Solution for cleaning minor injuries.

• Triple Antibiotics (without pain medicine)

• Probiotics to help with upset stomachs.​

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Contingency Plan:
Plan for Power Outages: Ensure you have a way to keep your hedgehog warm if the power goes out, such as hand warmers or extra blankets.

Sickness or Disaster Plan:

Have a backup plan for who will take care of your hedgehog if you are unable to due to illness or an emergency. Make sure this person is familiar with your hedgehog’s needs and has access to your emergency kit and care instructions. 

Tattered Ears

• Dry ears can be treated with Laninol. 

• Mites with cause excess dry skin buildup. 

• Fungal infection

• Injuries

• Poor nutrition 

Mites
Early signs of a mite infestation can be hard to spot unless your hedgehog is super itchy. Watch for quill loss, biting, chewing, scratching, loss of appetite, or dandruff. There's no safe over-the-counter mite treatment for hedgehogs, no matter what some products claim. DIY remedies can be dangerous, even fatal. If you think your hedgehog has mites, it’s important to see a vet for a skin cytology. Your vet will prescribe Revolution, with the right dosage based on your hedgehog’s weight.

Raw Feet
Hedgehogs can develop raw and bloody feet due to several factors like running on a wheel with raised grooves and getting their toenails caught. Additionally, "poop boots," or caked-on feces, can irritate their skin. To treat these issues, start by removing the wheel from the cage for a few days to prevent further injury. Give your hedgehog warm foot baths daily to soothe and keep their feet clean, and make sure the cage is regularly cleaned and disinfected to avoid infection. If there's no improvement by day three, you should schedule a vet appointment for further evaluation and treatment. I also recommend switching to a Carolina Storm Bucket Wheel to help prevent future injuries.

Upper Respiratory Infections
Upper Respiratory Infections (URIs) are fairly common and usually result from bacteria, viruses, or environmental factors like cold temperatures, drafts, or poor living conditions. 

Treatment involves veterinary care, where a vet may prescribe antibiotics if a bacterial infection is suspected. Supportive care, such as keeping the hedgehog warm and hydrated, and you may need to syringe-feed them if they aren’t eating. Adding a humidifier to their environment can also help alleviate breathing difficulties. To prevent URIs, maintain proper housing by keeping their environment clean, warm, and free from drafts. A balanced diet is important for strengthening their immune system, and minimizing stress by limiting handling or changes in their surroundings can also reduce the risk of infection. If you suspect your hedgehog has a URI, seek veterinary attention.

Cancer

Cancer in hedgehogs is unfortunately quite common, especially as they age. Various types of cancers can develop, affecting different organs and tissues. Mammary tumors, oral tumors, and skin tumors are the most common. Symptoms of cancer in hedgehogs can be subtle and mimic other illnesses like weight loss, lethargy, loss of appetite, visible lumps or growths, changes in behavior, or difficulty breathing, depending on the location of the tumor.

Genetics, age, and environmental factors play a role. Regular veterinary check-ups are so important to catch these issues early.

Treatment may include surgery to remove tumors, or palliative care.

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WHS
Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome, WHS, is a fatal neurological disease that slowly paralyzes a hedgehog. It usually starts with the back legs, making them weak and unresponsive. There's no known cure and the exact cause is unknown. [WHS Video]​​​

Welcoming Home 
Preparing a new home for your baby hedgehog is key to reducing stress and helping them settle in smoothly. Ensure their cage is fully set up, with the heat source on and maintaining the right temperature before you bring them home. This will allow your hedgehog to explore their new environment without added anxiety. It's also a good idea to have a three-month supply of hoglet food to avoid any dietary changes during the transition. When you first bring your hedgehog home, give them a few days to acclimate, handling them in short 15-minute sessions twice a day. Daily handling is crucial for socialization, but be careful not to overwhelm them by introducing too much too soon.

You might notice your hedgehog frothing at the mouth and spreading the foam on their quills, a behavior called "anointing," which is completely normal. If you experience small red bumps after handling them, known as "hedgie hives," don't worry—they typically subside over time, and wiping down their quills with a baby wipe can help. Baby hedgehogs often sleep up to 20 hours a day as they grow, waking only to eat, drink, and poop. During the quilling phase, your hedgehog might seem grumpy as new quills come in, but this is normal, and warm baths can help soothe their skin. To help them acclimate, leave a recently worn T-shirt in their cage to familiarize them with your scent, talk to them to get them used to your voice, and let them explore your lap while you relax. Raised quills usually mean they’re feeling scared, while flat quills indicate they’re relaxed. If your hedgehog falls asleep on you, it’s a sign they feel safe. Building trust takes time, so be patient and consistent. With time, your hedgehog will bond with you and become more social, making all your efforts worth it. [What to Expect Video]​​​

Daily Care Checklist:
1. Ensure the habitat is between 75°F and 80°F.
2. Do a quick health check daily
3. Spot clean the cage and empty the litter tray
4. Clean the wheel
5. Give a foot bath if needed
6. Hold for a minimum of 30 minutes per day
7. Refill water sippers
8. Feed 2 tablespoons of fresh cat food daily
9. Offer a variety of live insects, 10-15 daily.​​

[Hedgehog Care Video]

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Feeding Time

Leave 2 tablespoons of food in the  enclosure overnight and replace with fresh kibble. They should always have access to their kibble to graze on. Free feeding is not advised!

Acclimating
Hedgehogs are creatures of habit and changes are hard on them. Expect behavior changes as they are not in a familiar environment. They will be overwhelmed and overstimulated. Acclimating to their new home usually takes about 2 weeks.

Socializing
Socialization starts with us, the breeder. When safe we begin socializing babies as soon as mom allows us to handle her babies. We introduce new sounds to "desensitize" them to not be so jumpy and make them less responsive to noises, quick movements, and different people holding them. Through repeated exposure, we are also making it easier to socialize them because the stimuli isn't so scary.

The goal is to make them less fearful and stressed. Socializing might involve gently handling them regularly, introducing new sounds or scents, or exposing them to different environments. It's about acclimating your baby to various situations. This is one of the building block to the next step, bonding.

Bonding
Bonding is built on trust and consistency, so without socializing your baby there won't be as strong of a bond. With time, your hedgehog will start to recognize your scent and voice. Once they are comforted by your presence, you are on the right track! Bonding requires commitment, and spending quality time with your hedgie.  [Hedgehog Bonding Video]​​​

Bonding Tips:
1. Keep the first few days calm and quiet. Being close to you, hearing you, and smelling you will help familiarize them with you. Hold your hedgehog in a cuddle sack or on a blanket while you're relaxing. or curled up in a blanket.
2. Hold your baby as often as possible. Be firm and confident, even if they act defensive don't give up. We recommend at least 30 minutes of bonding every day, we usually do two 15 minute increments. The more confident you feel, the more relaxed your hedgie will be. If you’re nervous, your hedgie will be too.
3. Never use gloves while bonding it will mask your scent. 
4. Integrate your hedgie time with other activities. While reading, studying, watching TV, or working on the computer, let your hedgie relax in your lap with a blanket or snuggle bag. When doing household chores, put your hedgie in a snuggle scarf. These ideas will help your hedgie get used to your scent and bond with you.
5. Set up a playpen to prevent escapes, or let your hedgie roam a room under supervision. Block off any areas where your hedgie could get stuck or escape. You can sit on the floor and let your hedgie explore your lap, which will slowly help build trust.

Footbaths
"Poop Boots" is a common thing for hedgehogs, and require a footbath to clean their feet as part of their hygiene routine. When hedgehogs run on their wheel they relieve themselves at the same time. Fill the sink with enough warm water to cover the feet and allow your hedgehog to walk around until the feces is soft enough to rub off, with a washrag or old soft toothbrush. As an extra benefit, it is less likely your hedgehog will not eliminate themselves on you while bonding after a footbath.

Bathing
Hedgehogs don't need frequent baths—only when necessary—since too many can dry out their skin. Hedgehogs tend to relieve themselves in warm water, so choose a spot that's easy to disinfect, like a sink or shallow bathing dishpan.

If your hedgehog is quilling, more frequent warm water soaks (without soap) may help ease discomfort by softening the skin for new quills to grow.

Before starting the bath, gather all supplies. Use water safe for a baby, and just deep enough for your hedgehog to stand comfortably. Gently pour water over its back, and avoid the face. Use a small amount of Aveeno Baby Wash with a bathing brush to clean the quills, then rinse with warm water. Never leave your hedgehog unattended during the bath.

Supplies you will need: Aveeno Baby Wash, brush, hand towel, towel, nail clippers​​, rinse cup

Nail Trims
Hedgehogs need regular nail trims since they can't wear down their nails in captivity. Nail trims every two weeks will help them from getting too long. If you're struggling, try trimming them after a foot bath when the nails are easier to see or schedule a time to come by for a nail trim appointment.

Items you’ll need: baby nail clippers or cuticle clippers, and something like Miracle Care Kwik Stop Styptic Powder stop any bleeding.