Before bringing a hedgehog home, be sure you are completely prepared and have a general idea of what to expect. The following resources are where we recommend you start. ​
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Preparing for a Hedgehog
Introduction to
African Pygmy Hedgehogs
The Basics
Name: African Pygmy Hedgehog
Scientific Name: Atelerix albiventris
Average Lifespan: 5 years
Maturity: 6 months
Adult Size: 5 to 8 inches long
Adult Weight: 300-600 grams
Lifespan
"What’s the lifespan? We get asked this a lot! The average lifespan we see for our hedgehogs is 5 years. The oldest hedgehog that was produced by our herd lived to be 8 1/2.
A well-informed and attentive owner will greatly impact the quality of life and extend the life of the hedgie drastically. Understanding their needs through doing the proper research and providing routine care is key to their health.​ The lifespan of a African Pygmy Hedgehog depends on a variety of factors, here is a break down:
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Nutrition & Hydration - High-quality cat food like like the brand Inception and live insects support support digestion while also giving them enrichment. Freshwater should always be available.
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Environment - Hedgehogs need a stable, warm environment ( 75°F to 80°F) to prevent hibernation or overheating. They need a secure spacious cage, we recommend 6 square feet, with the exception of the Critter Nation that work amazing for families with prey driven pets. Hedgehog are prey animals, so they need many spaces to hide, open spaces leave them vulnerable. The proper bedding is important as well, some are toxic and harmful to their respiratory system and some can cause impaction. Safe cleaning supplies is super important too. If you need help, please see the supply page for a detailed list. You cannot have a healthy hedgehog in a dirty environment, keep you hedgehog's cage clean!​
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Health - We recommend yearly wellness exams to monitor your hedgehog’s health and catch issues early. Changes in their environment, diet, or routine can cause them significant stress which can lead to a weakened immune system. Quilling can be uncomfortable and weaken their immune system, like a baby teething and having a fever, they feel miserable. Monitor their food and water intake, and providing supportive care such as warm water soaks to help ease the quilling process. Hedgehogs can be susceptible to mites from their environment too. We keep our hedgehogs on a monthly mite preventative called, Revolution. (This is optional!)​​
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Enrichment - Hedgehogs are nocturnal and often run miles a night on their wheel. To prevent boredom add cat toys and tunnels. We hide cat treats under their toys for them to find. Keep their environment mentally stimulating!​
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Genetics - Breeding practices greatly contribute to the overall health and genetic diversity of hedgehogs! Poor breeding, is the number one cause of premature death usually due to genetic issues from inbreeding. can lead to genetic issues and shorter lifespans. This can also affect a overall health, behaviors, and susceptibility to congenital conditions and also contributes to Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome. This is why you need to do your research before getting a hedgehog.
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***All these factors contribute to the overall health and lifespan.***
Hedgehogs typically live between 3 to 7 years, but with the proper care. Some live longer and some live shorter lives, there is no way of knowing. It's just like people, there is not an expire date or a crystal ball. Focus on the quality of life over a quantity. Please read this page in its entirety!
Hybrid or Not?
​Very little is known about the true origin of African Pygmy Hedgehogs, due to the lack of DNA evidence. The most plausible theory is that they came from a cross between an Algerian Hedgehog and White Bellied Hedgehog, the most dominant gene characteristic being that they are now more closely related to the White Bellied Hedgehog. The word "Pygmy" comes from the fact that they are the smallest of hedgehog species. Everyone has different theories, so please let me know if you find some evidentiary findings that I may find interesting while you do your research.
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Check out this blog: [Hybrid or Not?]​​​
Personality Types
Hedgehogs have their own personality and personal quirks. While most of the demeanor truly has a lot to do with handling at a young age. The general personalities are cuddlers, adventurous, loners, and huffy.​
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"Adventurous" hedgehogs are always on the go. They are truly the funniest of personalities. When they are out for bonding time, they love to run and burn off their extra energy. I find them to have the sweetest personalities and they rarely raise their quills. They require a higher fat food and lots of protein substitutes like ground chicken, eggs, and insects to keep up with their fast metabolism. These personalities do well with active families, who enjoy active pets.
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​"Cuddly" hedgehogs are more relaxed and chill on your lap while you sit and watch tv or do homework. I highly recommend this type for first-time owners! You will likely need to keep an eye on their weight, as the cuddly hogs tend to be on the chunky side. These personalities, generally bond quicker.
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​"Loner" hedgehogs enjoy being left alone. They seem happier running on their wheel, running PVC pipe mazes, and left to themselves. They love their routine! They don't seek your attention, but you should still get them out every day.​
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​"Huffy" hedgehogs are intimidating and we do not recommend them to anyone besides a patient adult. All hedgehogs huff, but these hedgehogs are plain grumpy. They will hiss, pop, ball up, and click at you. They are prone to bite out of fear. With the right person, they do come around but these hedgehogs pick their person. Once they trust you, you will be lifelong friends! The owners have got to be patient, and up to the challenge. We do not adopt huffy hedgehogs to first-time owners. These rescue and surrender are super hard to place because of their antisocial behaviors.​​​​​​​​
Body Language
Sounds
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Huffing and Hissing: Fear, mistrust, anger
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Clicking and Popping: Extreme fear or anger
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Purring: Contentment
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Snuffling: exploring or curiosity accompanied with wiggling nose
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Chirping: Hunger, mainly in unweaned hoglets
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Squealing: Pain or frustration
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Screaming: High-pitched shriek, extreme pain or nightmare
Solitary
Hedgehogs are SOLITARY animals and do not bond with each other, so they should be housed separately to avoid territorial issues. ​Fighting and dominance issues are very common among co-housed hedgehogs. Squealing and huffing is a form of communication in milder displays of dominance. The most common injuries from these conflicts are damaged ears, bites on the legs, injuries just under the quill skirt, and death.​
Male vs Female
Both genders make great pets! There is no difference in personality when it comes to the sex of the hedgehog, the personality varies by individual hedgie.
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Males engage in masturbation aka "boy time". Most are discrete and some are not shy at all! Once males are mature, you may find dried on semen dried on your hedgehog's belly. A bath may be needed.
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Females are induced ovulators. They do not come into heat cycles or periods. If there is blood present, that warrants a vet visit. Based of of my experience, female are more prone to reproductive cancers.
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Spaying and neutering is not suggested unless medically necessary.
Quilling Up
This is a defensive behavior, where the hedgehog is protecting itself from potential threats . If a hedgehog is quilling up around you, it might be feeling scared, stressed, or unsure of its surroundings. Hedgehogs may or may not ball up when their quills are raised.
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Raised quills (fear)
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Flattened quills (relaxed)
Balling Up
Hedgehogs ball up for the same reason turtles do when they tuck their limbs into their shells: protection. When a hedgehog "ball up," it means the hedgehog is curling into a tight ball with its quills sticking out. By curling up, it exposes its sharp quills outward, making it difficult for predators to attack or harm it. The muscles cross the spines and create an almost impenetrable barrier by pulling several spines in various directions. Additionally, a balled-up hedgehog will huff, click, or pop to make itself seem as frightening as possible.
Scratching
Hedgehogs will scratch from anxiety when they first come home it will go away after the acclimation period. When a baby hedgehog is quilling, you can give the baby a warm water bath to help soften the skin to make it easier for the quills to come in. Dry skin is so common in hedgehogs! If you suspect your hedgehog's scratching is more than anxiety, quilling, or dry skin, please read the mites section and contact me for additional help.
Self-Anointing
Thank you to Jamie & Hailey for this video of sweet Daisy!
Self-anointing is a completely normal, unexplained behavior in hedgehogs. When hedgehogs come into contact with something new to them, they will begin to lick and then taste the item of interest and then will begin frothing at the mouth which they will apply to other areas of their body. Once your hedgehog settles into their new home, your hedgehog will anoint far less than before, but until then have some unscented baby wipes handy!
Biting
African Pygmy Hedgehogs aren't typically biters. Their main defense mechanism is their quills, and they curl into a ball to protect themselves. However, they might bite in certain situations: when they're hurt, overhandled, smell something unpleasant on your hands, or are just being curious and "tasting" things. Hedgehogs are especially sensitive to the smell of cigarettes or marijuana, and they might bite smokers or anyone with those scents on them.
Hedgehogs use their sense of smell and taste to investigate their surroundings, especially babies. Some hedgehogs are curious "tasters." Remember, when you bring your hedgehog home, they may experience sensory overload. After the two-week acclimation period, your hedgehog will feel more comfortable in its surroundings, and then the bonding can begin.
Burrowing
Hedgehogs in captivity like to dig and burrow in anything they can, it is their natural instinct. The cage for your hedgehog should ideally be big enough to include multiple hiding spots. This not only improves the environment around your hedgie, but it also gives sense of security as well as adding enrichment. If you chose to do fleece instead of loose bedding, you will need more hides and burrowing options for your hedgehog. All tunnels and hiding places must be big enough for them to turn around in as they enter head first and exit the same way. In the wild, hedgehogs spend their days sleeping basically anywhere dark that they can conceal themselves from predators.
Nocturnal
Hedgehogs are nocturnal therefore they are primarily active at night! They run on their wheels and reorganize their cages while you are sleeping. You may hear them eating their kibble and drinking from their hedgehog sipper, scratching, and even trying to escape if they are not provided the proper enrichment.
“Bed Head”
All hedgehogs no matter how friendly, will huff and quill up at you when woken up. Hedgehogs need to be woken up gently rather than being bombarded with stimuli at first. Allow a few minutes to wake up on its own by removing its hide and turning off the lights. As your hedgehog relaxes, carefully scoop them up from beneath their belly.
Eliminating
Hedgehogs tend to eliminate shortly after waking up, after eating, or after running on their wheel. Pay attention to when and where your hedgehog prefers to eliminate. To prevent odors and maintain hygiene clean up after your hedgie regularly.
Messy Wheels
Baby hedgehogs have a short intestinal tracks as they run. In the morning, owners are greeted with a messy wheel and "poop boots". Cleaning the wheel is an everyday task. We prefer bucket wheels because they are super easy to clean!​
Quilling
Babies go through a quilling process where they shed their baby quills and grow new adult ones. This can be pretty uncomfortable for them, often making them grumpier than usual. Imagine growing needles out of your skin—it’s like a baby teething but all over their body. Some babies have a tougher time quilling than others, while for some, you might not even notice except for the loose quills. Quilling can be challenging for both the hedgehog and the owner, but with patience and proper care, it can be managed effectively. Consistent handling during this time is crucial for bonding, even if your hedgehog is a bit grumpy.
You’ll find lots of loose quills, but your baby should never be bare or have any bald spots. Quilling is usually at its worst between 6-8 weeks old and normally lasts a couple of weeks, on and off. This is why we don’t usually send babies home until around 8 weeks. Most hedgehogs finish quilling by around 6 months old, but this can vary. You might see new quills poking through their skin, indicating they are currently quilling. Some hedgehogs become extremely uncomfortable and grumpy during this time. They may not want their backs touched but continue to handle them for bonding.
Managing Discomfort:
A warm bath can help soften the skin, allowing the larger adult quills to emerge more easily. While holding your hedgehog as it dries, softly brush the quills with a baby brush to help loosen the baby quills. Instead of topical treatments, add one drop of salmon oil or fish oil to their dry kibble at each meal. This helps prevent dry skin and is a healthy alternative to overused topical treatments.
Monitoring for Issues:​
The quills should have a root at the end. If you notice dry flaky skin attached to the root ball, an infected ingrown quill, excessive quill loss after a year, or bald spots, make a vet appointment to rule out mites, fungal infection, or other issues.
Hibernation
Estivation
Estivation is not a common behavior in African Pygmy Hedgehogs. High temperatures will leading to heat exhaustion. By keeping your hedgehog's enclosure an ambient temperature between 75°F and 80°F, you won't have any issues. Signs of overheating include excessive panting, lethargy, slatting and unresponsiveness.
Hedgie Hives
Some new owners will get mild irritation caused by the quills when they hold their hedgehog. Wash your hand after holding your hedgehogs. One effective way to manage it is by wiping their quills down with a non-scented baby wipe instead of over-bathing them.
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For more tips, check out this helpful video: ["Hedgie Hives" Video]​​​
Health and Vet Care
Vet Visits
Yearly Exams
Hedgehogs should have yearly routine health check-ups to keep a baseline of health on record. There are some pet insurance that cover hedgehogs, we highly recommend looking into it. It’s crucial to find a vet who is well-versed in hedgehog care, because not all have are well versed in their care. ​
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Most are veterinarians are not well-informed on hedgehog diet specifics. Do not feed your hedgehog a commercially hedgehog diet, even if it is suggested. These foods are made of poor quality ingredients. Deviating away from the recommended diet will void all health guarantees.​​
Weight Checks
Around 6 months old, your hedgehog will reach full size. If you notice a weight change of more than 30 grams after they've reached adulthood, it's a good idea to schedule a vet visit. The average adult hedgehog weighs between 300 and 600 grams. For the most accurate results, weigh your hedgehog on the same day and time each week—my routine is Saturday mornings!
Surprisingly, keeping a weight log can help catch many illnesses before the first symptoms appear. The first sign that one of our hedgehogs might be feeling unwell is often a decrease in appetite and subsequent weight loss. First-time owners might miss this key symptom, leading to later detection of illnesses. If you notice a significant weight change during your weekly weigh-ins, feel free to message us for advice. However, if you suspect your hedgehog is sick, it's crucial to see a vet.
Emergency Preparedness
Hedgehogs are prone to minor injuries and require specific care, especially in emergency situations. It's important to have a well-stocked emergency kit and a contingency plan in case of illness, natural disasters, or power outages.
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Essential Items:
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Card with Vet Information and Emergency Contacts: Always have your vet’s contact information and emergency numbers readily available.
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Emergency Vet Cash: Keep some cash on hand specifically for emergency vet visits.
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Miracle Care Kwik Stop: For stopping minor bleeding from nail trims or small cuts.
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Travel Carrier: In case you need to transport your hedgehog quickly.
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Hand Warmers:To keep your hedgehog warm during power outages or travel.
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Bottled Water: Ensure you have clean water available.
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Pedialyte and Oral Syringes: Useful for hydration if your hedgehog is sick and dehydrated.
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One Week’s Worth of Food: Keep an extra supply of your hedgehog’s regular food.
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Flashlight: For emergencies when you need extra light.
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Extra Blankets/Liners/Bedding: To keep your hedgehog comfortable and warm.
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Paper Towels: For cleaning up messes and maintaining hygiene.
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Small Scissors and Baby Nail Clippers: For trimming nails and cutting bandages or gauze.
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Tweezers: To remove splinters or debris from injuries.
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Cotton Swabs/Q-tips and Gauze: For cleaning wounds and applying medication.
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Contact Lens Solution:For cleaning minor injuries.
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Triple Antibiotics (without pain medicine): For treating minor cuts and scrapes.
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Probiotics: To help with upset stomachs.
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Lanolin: For treating dry ears.
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Rescue Remedy: For reducing excessive stress in your hedgehog.
Contingency Plan:
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Plan for Power Outages: Ensure you have a way to keep your hedgehog warm if the power goes out, such as hand warmers or extra blankets.
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Sickness or Disaster Plan: Have a backup plan for who will take care of your hedgehog if you are unable to due to illness or an emergency. Make sure this person is familiar with your hedgehog’s needs and has access to your emergency kit and care instructions.
Tattered Ears
If you notice tattered ears in a hedgehog, it's a good idea to take them to a vet who is experienced with exotic animals. The vet can determine the cause and provide the appropriate treatment, whether it's medication for parasites, a change in diet, or something else.
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Dry ears can be treated with Laninol. During a foot bath is a good time to put in on so your hedgehog can't curl up into a ball! Rub it on the ears as good as you can.
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If your hedgehog has any of the symptoms of mites, it will require a prescription of Revolution through your vet to completely fix the ears, but you can follow the dry ear instructions above.
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A hedgehog in a humid environment ( like a fish tank, which is not recommended) or a dirty enclosure is susceptible to fungal infections. Both are also a cause for upper respiratory infections.
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Injuries can also cause frayed ears. Such as a baby whose mother was overzealous when cleaning her babies, an injury, or fighting if cohouseing (not recommended).
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Poor nutrition can lead to bad skin and ear health.
Mites
Our hedgehogs get a monthly dose of Revolution to keep mites and other parasites at bay. Early signs of a mite infestation can be hard to spot unless your hedgehog is super itchy. Watch for quill loss, biting, chewing, scratching, loss of appetite, or dandruff. There's no safe over-the-counter mite treatment for hedgehogs, no matter what some products claim. DIY remedies can be dangerous, even fatal. If you think your hedgehog might have mites, it’s essential to see a vet for a skin test. Vets typically prescribe Revolution, with the right dosage based on your hedgehog’s weight.
Raw Feet
Hedgehogs can develop raw and bloody feet due to several factors. Running on wheels with raised grooves can cause abrasions, while getting their toenails caught may lead to accidental tears. Additionally, "poop boots," or caked-on feces, can irritate their skin. To treat these issues, start by removing the wheel from the cage for a few days to prevent further injury. Give your hedgehog warm foot baths daily to soothe and clean their feet, and make sure the cage is regularly cleaned and disinfected to avoid infection. If there's no improvement by day three, it's important to schedule a vet appointment for further evaluation and treatment. I also recommend switching to a Carolina Storm Bucket Wheel to help prevent future injuries.
WHS
Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome, WHS, is a fatal neurological disease that slowly paralyzes hedgehogs. It usually starts with the back legs, making them weak and unresponsive. There's no known cure and the exact cause is unknown.
For more info, check out this helpful video: [WHS Video]​​​
Bringing Home Your Hedgehog
Welcoming
Home
Preparing a new home for your baby hedgehog is key to reducing stress and helping them settle in smoothly. Ensure their cage is fully set up, with the heat source on and maintaining the right temperature before you bring them home. This will allow your hedgehog to explore their new environment without added anxiety. It's also a good idea to have a three-month supply of hoglet food to avoid any dietary changes during the transition. When you first bring your hedgehog home, give them a few days to acclimate, handling them in short 15-minute sessions twice a day. Daily handling is crucial for socialization, but be careful not to overwhelm them by introducing too much too soon.
You might notice your hedgehog frothing at the mouth and spreading the foam on their quills, a behavior called "anointing," which is completely normal. If you experience small red bumps after handling them, known as "hedgie hives," don't worry—they typically subside over time, and wiping down their quills with a baby wipe can help. Baby hedgehogs often sleep up to 20 hours a day as they grow, waking only to eat, drink, and poop. During the quilling phase, your hedgehog might seem grumpy as new quills come in, but this is normal, and warm baths can help soothe their skin. To help them acclimate, leave a recently worn T-shirt in their cage to familiarize them with your scent, talk to them to get them used to your voice, and let them explore your lap while you relax. Raised quills usually mean they’re feeling scared, while flat quills indicate they’re relaxed. If your hedgehog falls asleep on you, it’s a sign they feel safe. Building trust takes time, so be patient and consistent in your care. With time, your hedgehog will bond with you and become more social, making all your efforts worth it.
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Check out this helpful video: [What to Expect Video]​​​
Routine
By following this routine, you’ll ensure your hedgehog stays happy, healthy, and soon be well-bonded with you. We usually do our daily care starts around 7am and bonding time is saved for in the evening when we have some down time between college, kids at school and work. It truly doesn't matter when you decide do it, just try to stay consistent so your hedgie learns the routine.
Daily Care Checklist:
1. Ensure the habitat is between 75°F and 80°F.
2. Do a quick health check daily
3. Spot clean the cage and empty the litter tray
4. Clean the wheel
5. Give a foot bath if needed
6. Hold your hedgehog for a minimum of 30 minutes per day.
7. Refill water sippers
8. Feed 2 tablespoons of fresh cat food daily
9. Offer a variety of live insects, 10-15 daily.​​
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Check out this helpful video: [Hedgehog Care Video]​​​
Hedgehogs are creatures of habit, and changes are hard on them. You should expect a behavior changes from when you pick up your hedgehog in a familiar environment to abruptly doing a 180 on them. They will be overwhelmed and overstimulated. Acclimating to their new home usually takes about 2 weeks.
Socializing
Socialization starts with us, the breeder. When safe we begin socializing babies as soon as mom allows us to handle her babies. We introduce new sounds to "desensitize" them to not be jumpy andy make the babies less responsive to noises, quick movements, and different people holding them. Through repeated exposure, we are also making it easier to socialize them because the stimuli isn't so scary. Our home is busy and sometimes loud. The babies are introduced to the sounds of the washer and dryer, the vacuum, TV, other animals, ect.
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The goal is to make them less fearful and stressed. Socializing might involve gently handling them regularly, introducing new sounds or scents, or exposing them to different environments like from their cage to their playpen. It's about acclimating your baby to various situations. This is one of the building block to the next step, bonding.
Bonding
Hedgehogs use their sense of smell to make up for their poor vision.
In the beginning, they’re defensive because they’re not comfortable around their you yet and aren’t sure if you’re safe. Your hedgie does NOT hate you; they're just trying to figure things out. They might ball up and take a long time to unball, or be huffier and pricklier than when you first met at our home.
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Bonding is built on trust and consistency, so without socializing your baby will not have a strong bond to you. With time, your hedgehog will start to recognize your scent and voice, eventtually your touch. Once they are comforted by your presence, you are on the right track! Bonding requires commitment, and spending quality time with your hedgie, such as cuddling or simply being near each other. All this to say, bonding is about forming a trusting with your hedgehog.
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Bonding Tips:
1. Keep the first few days calm and quiet. Being close to you, hearing you, and smelling you will help familiarize them with you and your family. Hold your hedgehog in a cuddle sack or on a blanket while your relaxing. or curled up in a blanket or cuddle sack on your lap if they’re tired or frightened.
2. Hold your baby as often as possible. Be firm and confident in your handling, even if they act defensive don't give up. We recommend at least 30 minutes of bonding every day, we usually do two 15 minute increments. The more confident you feel, the more relaxed your hedgie will be. If you’re nervous, your hedgie will be too.
3. Never use gloves while bonding it will mask your scent. The best method to pick up your hedgie is to place both hands, palms up, on each side and scoop them up from underneath.
4. Integrate your hedgie time with other activities. While reading, studying, watching TV, or working on the computer, let your hedgie relax in your lap with a blanket or snuggle bag. When doing household chores, put your hedgie in a snuggle scarf. These ideas will help your hedgie get used to your scent and bond with you.
5. Set up a playpen to prevent escapes, or let your hedgie roam a room under supervision. Block off any areas where your hedgie could get stuck or escape. You can sit on the floor and let your hedgie explore your lap, which will slowly help build trust.
6. Keep a Routine
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Check out this helpful video: [Hedgehog Bonding Video]​​​
Footbaths
"Poop Boots" is a common thing for hedgehogs, and require a footbath to clean their feet as part of their hygiene routine. When hedgehogs run on their wheel they relieve themselves at the same time. Fill the sink with enough warm water to cover the feet and allow your hedgehog to walk around until the feces is soft enough to rub off, with a washrag or old soft toothbrush. As an extra benefit, it is less likely your hedgehog will not eliminate themselves on you while bonding after a footbath.
Bathing
Pet hedgehogs rely on us for grooming. They don't need frequent baths—only when necessary—since too many can dry out their skin. We aim for a bath once a month and use baby wipes in between. Hedgehogs tend to relieve themselves in warm water, so choose a spot that's easy to disinfect, like a sink or shallow bathing dishpan.
If your hedgehog is quilling, more frequent warm water soaks (without soap) may help ease discomfort by softening the skin for new quills to grow.
Before starting the bath, gather all supplies. Use water safe for a baby, and just deep enough for your hedgehog to stand comfortably. Gently pour water over its back, and avoid the face. Use a small amount of Aveeno Baby Wash with a bathing brush to clean the quills, then rinse with warm water. Never leave your hedgehog unattended during the bath.
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Supplies you will need:
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Aveeno Baby Wash
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Baby brush
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Hand towel
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Towel
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Nail clippers​​
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Rinse Cup
Nail Trims
Hedgehogs need regular nail trims since they can't wear down their nails in captivity. I'll show you how to do this at pickup, but if you're uncomfortable, I offer nail trimming services, or you can do a nurse visit at your vet.
Nail trims every two weeks will help them from getting too long. If you're struggling, try trimming them after a foot bath when the nails are easier to see or schedule a time to come by for me to show you.
Items you’ll need: baby nail clippers or cuticle clippers, and something like Miracle Care Kwik Stop Styptic Powder stop any bleeding.
Things to think of before you commit!
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Hedgehogs poop a lot and often at inconvenient times and places.
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Even if you manage to litter train them, you're still in for a messy wheel clean-up every day.
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Don’t expect a snuggly pet. Hedgehogs can be grumpy and might not enjoy being handled or socialized.
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Their quills can hurt, they are sharp!
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Some people develop hives or allergic reactions.
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Hedgehogs are expensive to set up and exotic vets can cost a lot.
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They’re prone to various illnesses, particularly tumors.
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They’re most active at night, which might not align with your schedule.
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Hedgehogs need a diet that includes live insects and a mix of high-quality cat foods, which can be expensive and not for the squeamish.
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Finding the right food mix for them can be tricky if you get a picky eater.
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They have an average lifespan of 5 years, meaning you’ll need to plan for their care through various life changes.
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Hedgehogs need a specific temperature range to stay healthy, which requires a reliable heat setup.
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They’re not big on playing with toys, so don’t expect them to entertain themselves with store-bought goodies.
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Hedgehogs prefer to be alone, so if you get more than one, be prepared to double up on all supplies.
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They’re not legal in every state, so check local laws before getting one.